This ECU pulls like a freight train from 2000rpm to way past the OEM redline. You will absolutely not believe how much better this is than the OEM ECU until you try it. It pulls super clean from very very low rpms & just makes the bike feel like it is connected to your wrist.

Even though this unit is adjustable down to 100rpm increments & 1% throttle changes, most people will still find it beneficial to go ahead & run a Powercommander in conjunction with the new ECU. It just aids in the ease of tuning, but if you have the time, dyno access & ability you can purchase the seperate cable & tuning software to reprogram the ECU itself.

The unit is a direct plug-in & only takes a few minutes to swap out the stock one, but several things need to be noted:

1. You WILL need a Race Wiring Harness or US Spec Harness to make this work on a bike with the HISS system

2. You WILL still get a MIL error code when you disconnect the HESD unless your software has been set to disregard the HESD. Again if you purchase the software & cable available at an added expense to reprogram certain functions of the ECU then you can turn the HESD off/on as well as setting the damping levels on a scale of 1-10 for both constant speed & acceleration.
Personally I chunked the HESD & use the Ohlins Damper (much better unit for track riding IMO)


3. You can remove the exhaust valve motor in its entirety without faulting out the ECU

4. The sidestand switch is also nullified (the bike can be put in gear with the sidestand down)

5. You must disconnect the clutch switch for this ECU to work properly (which means the bike will now only start with the transmission in neutral)

6. Since racebikes don't have cooling fans, the radiator fan will no longer function, so if you are commuting or doing any type of stop/go traffic you will need to wire in a manual ground wire on a switch so you can turn the fan of/on.

7. The rev limit is increased to 13,800 which is way over the stock rev limiter & while this sounds like a good thing it is very very easy to damage your motor if you are not careful & overrev the bike.

The additonal rpms is scary to say the least because it revs up there so fast & anyone that knows engines knows that even as little as a couple hundred more rpm over the stock redline even on built motors can be catastrophic so I simply cannot over-emphasize how much caution needs to be taken when running at the top of the rev range, but this ECU flat fuckin ROCKS!

8. Be prepared to go ahead & do the PAIR mod (remove the PAIR system) or the bike will pop on deceleration like a meeting of arsonists in a warehouse full of Orville Redenbachers best... The removal of the PAIR system only takes about 30-45 minutes & not that it affects the performance either way, but the bike just sounds like shit with all the backfiring caused by the constant supply of fresh air being pumped into the exhaust ports.

9. Do not use the PCIII USB Accelerator Pump option with this ECU

The low fuel light does continue to function as normal...