This page will be devoted to the CBR1000RR with product reviews, step by step detailed mod instructions & just as importantly we will also answer the questions of why we are performing each mod & what advantages or disadvantages they produce. My goal is simply to make this a living article to extract the most potential from the production version of the 1000RR
This bike is now 9 years old and still
getting it done out there!
buys a new bike goes through a period of infatuation
where the bike is perfect & can do no wrong, my
period was brief & now its time to get down to
business. This bike completely stock has some very
obvious traits both good & bad.
Typical OEM rough ride for two since the rear shock is designed to carry a max load of 366lbs, the rear spring is oversprung for riding solo & generally when the rear end is designed to carry that much weight on a sportbike the front forks will have less weight on them so they are usually undersprung which is why a fork re-work is always in order to get the most out of your stock suspension components. I mean most of the time you cannot even set the proper amount of sag front or rear to your weight & that is the very first thing that must be done before you can start tuning the suspension.
Heavy steering that gets worse when you drop the tire pressures to a respectable level for grip (note: the tire pressures listed in the manual are designed for carrying the max load of the bike all based on the same principle mentioned above about the suspension, reasonably lower tire pressures will give a smoother more complaint ride & more grip).
HESD steering damper is great for the street squid skimming the front wheel over some bumpy intersection racing away from a stoplight, but worthless & downright scary for track duty.
Very linear power delivery makes the bike very responsive in all areas of the rev range & very easy to ride in this regard
Even with the stiff suspension the bike just stays planted where you aim it even over rough roads so the stability is definitely there.
Great brakes (whoever said otherwise is clueless on this one)
Stiff clutch pull
Smoothest shifting "HONDA" gearbox I have ever used.
Right boot gets hot as hell
& there's a little bit of drive line lash that could be confused with an off/on throttle if you weren't an observant rider. Update: To get rid of the driveline lash you have to keep the motor spinnin & the tranny loaded. Bang your downshift quick & get back on the gas as soon as possible & the entire package is very smooth, but if you try to baby it & coast into the turns & ease back on the gas the lash is almost unbearable. Simple solution though!
|BMC Race Filters
Brake Pads HRC for OEM Tokico calipers
Brake Upgrade 04-05 (310mm) rotors to 06 (320) rotors
Brake Upgrade II Brembo 4 pad Mono-Bloc calipers! (delayed)
Brembo 19x18 Master Cylinder
Brembo GP4-RX Nickel Calipers
Brembo HP Super Sport Rotors
Bump Pad for race bodywork
Case Covers by Billettech
Common Torque Values
Commonly Used Part Numbers
CycleCynch for hauling your bike
Dyno Chart & Tuning Basics
Forks (cheap rework)
Geometry & Chassis Set-up
Leathers & Riding Gear
PCIII USB Powercommander
Ohlins Forks -W/Superbike Valving & Anti-Dive shim stack
Ohlins Steering Damper
Ohlins Shock REVALVED for HRC linkage
Ohlins TTX Shock
PC-V Powercommander WITH Autotune!!!
Race Fuels vs Pump Gas the truth
Rear M/C Reservoir
Rear Rotor & Caliper Bracket lightened
Sato Slip-on Exhaust
Sato 07 Full Ti System
Sato Frame Sliders
Sato Rear Reservoir Cup
Sato Riser 50mm Clip-ons
Spark Plugs - How To
Sprockets & Gearing & 520 conversion
Titanium Shock Spring
Gearing Spreadsheet must have Excel
Tires DOT Race VS Street
XT Laptimer with Mount
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